If you're in the market for a wine maturation cabinet chances are you're pretty clued up on all kinds of wine regions and will be familiar already with Chablis and wines of the Cote d'Or. Beginning this month we're starting our series looking for collectable wines worth maturing away from the well-trodden wine path where some great value can still be found.
Today we're going to look at the Grand Auxerrois. Rarely imported into the UK, it can be difficult to find wines from Vezeley, Tonnerois, Jovinien and the Auxerrois but the locals know this is where true value can be found and with many innovative winemakers in the area, the great sprawl of quality from Chablis is now firmly taking route in the rest of the Grand Auxerrois.
Its distinct terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking traditions contribute to a diverse portfolio of wines that has been gaining recognition in recent years. This essay explores the regions within the Grand Auxerrois, delving into each area's terroir, the unique grape varieties grown, and the vinification trends that define their wines. Today we're going to take a look into this little known wine region, so often overshadowed by it's famous near neighbours.
Overview of the Grand Auxerrois Wine Region
The Grand Auxerrois, situated in northern Burgundy near Chablis, stretches across the Yonne department and includes several sub-regions: Vézelay, Tonnerrois, Auxerrois, Jovinien, and Châtillonnais. Together, these regions represent around 1,200 hectares of vineyards, with a range of microclimates and soil types that support a variety of grape varieties and wine styles. The Grand Auxerrois historically produced wines primarily for local consumption, but the high quality and distinctive character of these wines have recently spurred interest among international wine enthusiasts.
The terroir of the Grand Auxerrois is defined by Kimmeridgian marl, limestone, and clay soils that are similar to those found in Chablis, providing a mineral-rich foundation that contributes to the wines' structure, minerality, and finesse laid down during the Jurassic. The continental climate, with relatively cool temperatures and frequent frosts, creates ideal growing conditions for Chardonnay, Aligoté, and Pinot Noir, as well as some unique local varieties like César and Sacy which are super rare to find in the UK.
The Sub-Regions of the Grand Auxerrois
Each sub-region within the Grand Auxerrois has its own distinct characteristics and wine styles. These differences are influenced by variations in terroir, climate, and winemaking traditions, resulting in a wide range of wine expressions.Vézelay
The Vézelay region is perhaps the best-known area within the Grand Auxerrois, due in part to its proximity to the Vézelay Basilica, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The vineyards here cover around 70 hectares and focus primarily on white wines made from Chardonnay. Vézelay wines tend to be crisp, fresh, and mineral-driven, showcasing the influence of limestone soils.
Since 2017, Vézelay wines have been awarded the appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) status, which has helped to elevate the region's profile. The AOC designation enforces strict standards for vineyard practices and winemaking techniques, resulting in higher quality and greater consistency. This appellation status has spurred a resurgence of investment and interest in Vézelay wines, and local winemakers are embracing sustainable and organic practices to distinguish their wines further.
Tonnerrois
The Tonnerrois region, situated to the east of Auxerre, is another significant sub-region of the Grand Auxerrois. It primarily produces white wines made from Chardonnay, although there is a growing interest in Pinot Noir and Aligoté. Tonnerrois wines are known for their freshness and minerality, thanks to the prevalence of Kimmeridgian soils.
The Tonnerrois vineyards have long been valued for their ability to produce high-quality Chardonnay with an elegant, mineral profile that is comparable to wines from Chablis. However, the wines from Tonnerrois often display a more subtle expression, with delicate fruit and floral notes that make them ideal for pairing with seafood and light dishes.
Auxerrois
The Auxerrois region, located around the town of Auxerre, is the heart of the Grand Auxerrois wine area. This area includes several villages with distinct terroirs and traditions. Notably, the village of Irancy produces red wines from Pinot Noir and a small amount of César, a rare red grape variety unique to the region. César is known for its tannic structure and dark fruit flavors, which complement the lighter, more aromatic profile of Pinot Noir.
In addition to Irancy, other villages in the Auxerrois produce a range of wines, including whites made from Chardonnay and Aligoté, and sparkling wines under the Crémant de Bourgogne appellation. The region’s winemakers are known for their dedication to preserving traditional practices, such as using old oak barrels and minimal intervention in the cellar, which helps to highlight the natural characteristics of the fruit and terroir.
Jovinien
Jovinien, the smallest sub-region within the Grand Auxerrois, is located near the town of Joigny. This region is best known for its red wines made from Pinot Noir, which tend to be lighter and more delicate than those from other parts of Burgundy. The cool climate and clay-limestone soils of Jovinien contribute to wines with bright acidity and a vibrant red fruit profile.
The winemakers in Jovinien are increasingly experimenting with organic and biodynamic practices, as well as using natural winemaking techniques to bring out the unique characteristics of their wines. This focus on sustainability and minimal intervention has contributed to a growing reputation for quality and authenticity among Jovinien wines.
Châtillonnais
Châtillonnais, located on the western edge of the Côte d'Or, is known primarily for its sparkling wines produced under the Crémant de Bourgogne appellation. The vineyards in Châtillonnais are planted on limestone soils that resemble those in Chablis and the Côte d'Or, providing an excellent foundation for high-quality sparkling wines.
The cool climate of Châtillonnais is ideal for producing base wines with high acidity, which is essential for creating fresh, balanced crémants. The region’s winemakers are highly skilled in traditional method (méthode champenoise) sparkling wine production, and many have invested in modern equipment and techniques to improve the quality of their wines. Crémants from Châtillonnais are typically crisp and elegant, with flavours of citrus, green apple, and mineral undertones, making them a popular choice for both local and international markets.
Key Grape Varieties in the Grand Auxerrois
While the Grand Auxerrois shares many grape varieties with other parts of Burgundy, its distinct climate and terroirs produce wines with unique characteristics. The primary grape varieties grown in the region include:Chardonnay - The main white grape of the Grand Auxerrois, producing wines that are fresh, mineral-driven, and less opulent than Chardonnays from the Côte de Beaune. The cool climate enhances the grape's acidity, making for lively wines with notes of citrus, green apple, and chalky minerality.
Aligoté - This lesser-known Burgundian variety is grown in Tonnerrois and other areas, producing crisp, light-bodied wines with high acidity and flavours of lemon and green apple. Aligoté is often blended with other varieties or used to make sparkling wines.
Pinot Noir - The primary red grape variety, Pinot Noir in the Grand Auxerrois tends to be more delicate than in warmer regions of Burgundy, with flavours of red cherry, raspberry, and subtle earthy undertones. In Irancy, it is sometimes blended with César for additional structure.
César - A rare red grape variety unique to the Auxerrois region, particularly in Irancy. César is high in tannins and dark fruit flavours, adding depth and complexity to the lighter Pinot Noir.
Sacy - A rare white grape variety that is indigenous to the Yonne department, Sacy is known for its refreshing acidity and light body. It is primarily used in sparkling wines and in blends with Chardonnay or Aligoté.
Vinification Trends in the Grand Auxerrois
The winemakers of the Grand Auxerrois are known for their commitment to traditional techniques, but there has been a recent shift towards more innovative and sustainable practices. Several vinification trends are emerging that are helping to shape the future of the region's wines.
Organic, Lutte Raisonee and Biodynamic Viticulture
As environmental concerns grow, many winemakers in the Grand Auxerrois are turning towards organic and biodynamic viticulture. The shift to organic farming, particularly in Vézelay and Jovinien, is driven by a desire to preserve the unique terroirs and improve the quality of the wines. Organic certification is becoming more common, and some estates are experimenting with biodynamic principles, such as using lunar cycles for vineyard tasks and incorporating compost and natural fertilisers.
Low Intervention Winemaking
There is a growing interest in low intervention or “natural” winemaking in the Grand Auxerrois, particularly among young winemakers. This approach focuses on minimal use of additives, indigenous yeast fermentation, and low sulfur additions, allowing the natural flavours of the grapes and terroir to shine through. Low intervention winemaking is particularly popular in Irancy and Jovinien, where winemakers aim to produce wines that are a true expression of their vineyards.
Emphasis on Crémant de Bourgogne
With the increasing popularity of sparkling wines, the Grand Auxerrois is placing a greater emphasis on Crémant de Bourgogne production. The Châtillonnais region, in particular, has become a center for crémant production, with many producers investing in modern equipment and refining their techniques to meet the growing demand. The crisp, mineral-driven base wines from Châtillonnais are ideal for sparkling production, and winemakers are experimenting with different grape blends, aging methods, and dosage levels to create a range of crémants with unique flavour profiles.
Experimentation with Aging Techniques
Some winemakers in the Grand Auxerrois are experimenting with different aging techniques, including the use of older oak barrels, concrete eggs, and amphorae. These vessels allow for a gentle micro-oxygenation without
imparting strong oak flavours, which suits the delicate wines of the region. This approach is especially popular among producers of Chardonnay and Aligoté, who want to highlight the purity of the fruit and the mineral character of the terroir.
Single Vineyard and Terroir-Driven Wines
As interest in terroir-driven wines grows, many producers in the Grand Auxerrois are focusing on single vineyard expressions. This trend reflects a desire to showcase the unique characteristics of individual vineyard sites, particularly in areas like Vézelay and Tonnerrois, where slight variations in soil composition and microclimate can have a significant impact on the wines. Single vineyard bottlings allow winemakers to highlight the subtle differences between sites and give consumers a more in-depth understanding of the region's diversity.
The best producers of the Grand Auxerrois?
The most expensive wines from the Grand Auxerrois are primarily high-quality expressions of Pinot Noir from the Irancy region, with Gabin et Félix Richoux and Maison de la Chapelle among the notable producers. Gabin et Félix Richoux's *Irancy Veaupessiot* stands out with a price around £35 per bottle, highly valued for its deep, structured character typical of Irancy’s robust Pinot Noir. Maison de la Chapelle offers its *Irancy Les Batardes* at approximately £30, also celebrated for its refined, terroir-driven qualities. Other high-priced options include *Irancy Les Beaux Monts* by Maison de la Chapelle and *Irancy Les Cailles* by Gabin et Félix Richoux, each priced around £30, reflecting their prestige and complexity. These wines exemplify the pinnacle of quality and are cherished for their longevity and unique character reflective of the Grand Auxerrois terroir.
If you're looking to experience the very best wines from the Grand Auxerrois and potentially cellar them then we recommend the following producers:Domaine de la Croix Montjoie – Vézelay
Domaine de la Croix Montjoie is one of the leading estates in the Vézelay region, known for producing outstanding white wines from Chardonnay. Founded in 2009 by Sophie and Matthieu Woillez, the estate sits on a limestone-rich hill overlooking the Vézelay Basilica, giving the wines a unique mineral quality that is a hallmark of the region. Domaine de la Croix Montjoie produces several expressions of Vézelay AOC wines, including “L’Élégante” and “L’Impatiente,” which emphasise freshness, citrusy notes, and a crisp mineral finish.
The Woillez family employs organic farming practices and minimal intervention in the cellar, focusing on natural yeasts and low sulfur additions. Their approach allows the unique terroir of Vézelay to shine through in their wines. Domaine de la Croix Montjoie has become a symbol of the renewed interest in Vézelay’s potential, garnering accolades for their refined, terroir-driven wines.
2. Domaine Goisot – Saint-Bris
Domaine Goisot, located in the village of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, is a family-run estate with a reputation for producing high-quality wines from a variety of grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté, and Pinot Noir. Jean-Hugues and Guilhem Goisot, the father-son duo behind the estate, have embraced biodynamic farming practices, helping their wines gain complexity and balance.
The estate’s Saint-Bris wines, made from Sauvignon Blanc, are particularly noteworthy. Unlike the more tropical expressions of Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire, Goisot’s wines are crisp, minerally, and restrained, with notes of green apple, lemon, and flint. In addition to their whites, Domaine Goisot also produces red wines from Pinot Noir and César, an ancient grape native to the region. Goisot’s commitment to sustainability, terroir expression, and traditional Burgundian techniques has made them one of the most respected producers in the Grand Auxerrois.
Domaine Bersan – Saint-Bris
Another notable producer from Saint-Bris, Domaine Bersan has a long history dating back several generations. The estate, run by Jean-Louis and his son Jean-Christophe Bersan, specialises in both red and white wines, with a particular focus on traditional methods. Domaine Bersan’s Sauvignon Blanc, made under the Saint-Bris AOC, is fresh and aromatic, showcasing citrus, green herbs, and minerality.
Domaine Bersan also produces a range of red wines from Pinot Noir and César. Their Irancy wines, in particular, have gained attention for their complexity and structure. The Bersans are strong advocates of organic farming and use minimal intervention in the cellar, allowing the wines to retain their natural character and purity. Known for their authenticity and depth, Domaine Bersan’s wines are an excellent representation of the quality that can be found in the Grand Auxerrois.
Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen – Chablis and Auxerrois
Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen is based in the village of Préhy, close to Chablis, and produces wines across several appellations, including those in the Grand Auxerrois. Founded in 2013 by husband-and-wife team Céline and Frédéric Gueguen, the estate has quickly gained a reputation for crafting elegant wines with a strong sense of place. Their vineyards are spread across Chablis, Saint-Bris, and Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre, and they focus on Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir.
The Gueguens emphasise sustainable farming and are committed to minimal intervention, with a strong respect for the terroir. Their Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc is aromatic, lively, and mineral-driven, while their Côte d’Auxerre wines offer fresh and vibrant expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With a modern approach to winemaking and a commitment to environmental stewardship, Domaine Gueguen represents the future of winemaking in the Grand Auxerrois.
Domaine Alain Mathias – Epineuil
Domaine Alain Mathias, located in Epineuil near Tonnerre, is a family-run estate known for producing expressive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vineyard’s cool climate and Kimmeridgian soils lend a bright acidity and minerality to the wines, reminiscent of Chablis. Alain Mathias and his son Arthur focus on organic viticulture, aiming to create wines that are both environmentally friendly and authentic to their terroir.
The Epineuil wines from Domaine Alain Mathias are known for their elegance and finesse, with the Pinot Noir in particular offering notes of cherry, raspberry, and earthy undertones. Their whites, made from Chardonnay, are fresh, with a characteristic limestone-driven minerality. Domaine Alain Mathias has become one of the leading names in Epineuil, thanks to their dedication to quality and terroir-focused winemaking.
Domaine Colinot – Irancy
Located in Irancy, Domaine Colinot is a family-owned estate that has specialised in red wines for generations. Irancy is one of the few regions in Burgundy that permits the use of the César grape, and Domaine Colinot takes advantage of this by blending César with Pinot Noir to create structured, complex wines. The César grape adds tannins, color, and black fruit flavours to the blend, giving the wines a unique character and aging potential.
Domaine Colinot is known for its traditional winemaking methods, including aging in old oak barrels to add depth without overwhelming the fruit. Their Irancy wines are robust yet balanced, with dark fruit, earthy undertones, and a touch of spice. Domaine Colinot’s dedication to the local winemaking heritage has helped keep Irancy’s unique identity alive, making them one of the premier producers in the Grand Auxerrois.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard – Chablis and Auxerrois
Though best known for its Chablis wines, Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard also produces excellent wines from vineyards in the Grand Auxerrois. The estate, founded in 1973, is a pioneer of organic and biodynamic farming in the region. Brocard’s focus on sustainable practices and terroir expression is evident in their wines, which include Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Jean-Marc Brocard’s wines from the Grand Auxerrois are fresh and mineral-driven, with an emphasis on purity and elegance. The Côte d’Auxerre Chardonnay, in particular, showcases the limestone-rich soils of the region, with vibrant acidity and flavours of green apple, citrus, and chalk. Domaine Brocard’s commitment to organic and biodynamic farming has made them one of the most respected producers in the Grand Auxerrois, known for both quality and environmental stewardship.
Domaine Sorin-Coquard – Irancy
Domaine Sorin-Coquard, based in Irancy, is a small family estate that has gained recognition for its rich and structured red wines. The Sorin family has been cultivating vines in Irancy for several generations, producing wines primarily from Pinot Noir, with small amounts of César to add complexity. Domaine Sorin-Coquard’s wines are known for their depth, with notes of black cherry, plum, and earthy spices, balanced by bright acidity.
The Sorin family practices sustainable viticulture and uses traditional winemaking techniques, including aging in French oak barrels. Domaine Sorin-Coquard’s dedication to quality and tradition has made them a leading name in Irancy, known for producing some of the region’s most structured and age-worthy wines.
The Grand Auxerrois is home to a diverse group of winemakers who bring out the best in the region’s unique terroirs and grape varieties. From the mineral-driven whites of Domaine de la Croix Montjoie in Vézelay to the robust reds of Domaine Colinot in Irancy, these producers are helping to establish the Grand Auxerrois as a distinctive and high-quality wine region. Their commitment to organic and biodynamic practices, low intervention winemaking, and traditional techniques reflects a deep respect for the land and its heritage. As the wines of the Grand Auxerrois gain recognition, these producers will undoubtedly play a pivotal role in shaping the future of this often-overlooked region.